![]() double wall shrink tube has the insulating sheath on the outside but also has "hot glue" on the inside that melts when the tubing is shrunk around the connector so the tube doesn't move around on the wire later plus the glue adds a bit more insulating factor to the connection by taking up space between the wire strands and the tube outer surface. use double wall shrink tube on connections. use quality crimping tools and connectors. fuse the circuit wires at THEIR source (like the fuse box or bus bar). leave some room for safety as far a wire gauge goes. Suggestions: check the max load on any given circuit (like if everything was running at max at the same time). I spent lots of time upside down in a cab with my head stuck in the console peeling back old black tape from the loom so I could trace wires back to a problem somewhere. unlike the factory floor there are a lot of things added to the vehicle after the wiring is placed and covered up. sounded good in theory but in actual practice it was a pain to work on. if the insulating loom were peeled back far enough the wires were actually labelled on each wire as to what the circuits were. I have worked on a lot of highway trucks in years past and found that some had the same wire color through out. I used an under dash, insulated, color coded, terminal stud, supplied with battery positive through appropriately sized cable, and connected to a mega fuse under the hood near the battery that would interrupt the supply very close to the source should a problem ever occur. there were many circuits taken off an inadequately supplied bus bar and when too many things were turned on the heat caused the insulation on the inadequately gauged, unfused supply wire to melt off, short to ground and start the fire. Recently I rewired a burnt motorhome dash where the previous owner did a bit of wiring that caused the fire. The good news is that most of the wires look good and it is mostly figuring out how to organize it, put fuses on the circuits that need fuses on it and make it neater and easier to contend with in the future. Not spendy, very neat and orderly and not very big. On the other hand Jegs shows some inexpensive fuse panels with different fuse count that would let you run several fused circuits off one main power feed. ![]() You may want to make up a panel that uses a combination of a fuse panel, barrier strip (s) and a terminal block before all is said and done. We are suggesting pieces from the Marine supply houses because normally you can drive to a marine supply house (boat parts) and look though their electrical offerings and make up a rather inexpensive panel. Relays save switches including ignition, headlight and dimmer switches. How many need to be on the hot all the time side?ĭo you need relays and how many? Halogen headlights or an electric fan on the radiator or some other high draw item are usually what need relays. How many need to run off the accessory side of the switch? It looks like you may have two main power feeds with all of the circuits powered off them. Finally figuring out that that setup is under the dash on the firewall rather than on the fender for the lights I'm going to have to say that the first order of business is to figure out what each wire does.
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